Friday, August 26, 2011

A quick pint in Montreal


So on a Thursday I find myself in downtown Montreal with the Hammer and the LBoH, with a little time to pass in between “Just for Laughs” events. The second show is in a dodgy-looking neighbourhood on Ste Catherine East that turns out to have a hidden gem. We grab a pint at le Sainte Elizabeth to slake our thirst.

Is this a narrow street, or a wide alley? It definitely feels like an alley. The pub seems to be the only actual building front. The comedy venue opens across the street, but it definitely looks like a side door. Le Sainte Elizabeth “Pub Européen” looms out of the darkness, three stories high with a black and white painted sign that might easily be as old as the 19th century stone building itself.

Inside the pub is dim and cozy, the bar is stuffed in to a back corner near the door. How the multiple bartenders can work in that small space is a mystery. There are three sets of tightly-arrayed taps, all different I think. Lots of domestics, a decent selection of Quebec brands, and a few rare imported drafts. I order a Beck’s, which I like in bottle have almost never seen as draft. LBoH get a Bass, and the Hammer a dull domestic. My eyes make out leather-seated booths, wood panelling, some beaten copper, a row of beer-brand mirrors at the dip in the ceiling, and a huge circular window at the back. It is busy, and the 80’s-90’s music is cool, but loud. We used to say “If it’s too loud, you’re too old”. Maybe they still do. In any case I know I am pretty much there.

The pub looks too small to be this busy. Why are there so many bartenders and servers in a 20x25 room? Then I see that there is a back courtyard, and we take our beers out in to the night air. The two-level courtyard is impressive. It is defined by tall brick walls, covered with ivy and tastefully lit; mature trees break up the dozens of full tables. It’s really cool, but only in the figurative sense. Not nearly as comfortable in the humid summer night as the air-conditioned interior, to which we soon return to find a table and finish our drinks.

I see no evidence of a kitchen, or food of any sort. Not that I am hungry, but pubs by definition serve food, and I am starting to think this place might not count as a ‘real’ pub. Maybe it doesn’t. And maybe it’s too loud. But maybe I will come here again, regardless.


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